p

THEOUGH MASAI LAND.

LOwrON: PBIKIES BT GILBEBT AKD EIVINGTOK, LIUITBS,

ST. John's squakb.

OK THl WXB PATH IN MASAI 1A>I).

Frontitpieee.

T ^: J 1 \ X n

/

l.oitDon

I I '

THROUGH MASAI LAND:

A JOURNEY OF EXPLORATION

AMONG THE SNOWCLAD VOLCANIC MOUNTAINS

AND STRANGE TRIBES

EASTERN EQUATORIAL AFRICA.

BEISG THE NARRATIVE OF THE ROYAL GEOGRAPHICAL

SOCIETY'S EXPEDITION TO MOUNT KEN I A AND

LAKE VICTORIA NYANZA, 1883-1884.

JOSEPH THOMSON, F.R.G.S.

GOLD XED1.I.LIST OF BOTAL 6KOO&l.rHICXL 80CIKTT :

HOX. MEM. SCOTTISH kSO ITALIW SKOGB VPHIC1.I. SOCIBmS ;

I.K1.0IB or TBB EXPEDITIOH;

ACTmoB or "TO the cebtbal Arsicxir lakbs jjtd back."

OU Ml jriMM C« MMO ;

CW M «rao V Umtamo.

NEW AND REVISED EDITION.

New species of Haitebeest.

IrOnUon :• SAMPSON LOW, MARSTOX, SEARLE, & EIVIXGTOX,

CBOWK BUILDIKas, 188, FLEET STBBET.

1887.

[All rights rtserved."]

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TO

MY FATHEE AND MOTHER Ci)ti$ Sook ii ScHtcatetl

IN THK HOPE THAT ITS PERUSAL

MAY COMPENSATE TO SOME EXTENT FOB THE

ANXIETIES IT HAS BEEN MY LOT TO MAKE THEM SUFFER

WHILE I WANDERED IN

MASAI LAND.

PREFACE.

My reason for the publication of the following narrative may be briefly stated. Tlx Expedition which I commanded was of a public character, and it was imperative that some ac- count of its doings should be produced. That being the case, I resolved to clothe the dry bones of a mere report in the flesh and blood of a narrative. I can honestly say that the prospect of writing it was one which had very little at- tractiveness for me, and that, if I am delighted to hand it over to the reader, it is more because my task is finished than from any expectations of a favourable reception.

I suppose I need hardly attempt to deprecate criticism. Still I may be allowed to remind the reader and reviewer that one who at the age of twentj'-six has undertaken three separate expeditions to the interior of Africa cannot be ex- pected to have had much opportunity to acquire the graces of literature, or an elegant style. I have poured this nar- rative forth red-hot, without any delicate weighing of words, or conning over of sentences, content that my meaning be expressed, whatever might be its guise.

I should have liked to 1)e able to say that "Through Masai Land" has been -written under palm-trees, or amid other romantic surroundings. A regard for truth, however, compels me to make the confession that it has been entirely composed under the customary prosaic surroundings of the " easy-chair geographer."

X Preface.

As in the case of my former book, '*To the Central African Lakes and Back," I have to acknowledge my in- debtedness to my brother, the Eev. J. B. Thomson, of Greenock, who has relieved me of the irksome work of literary revision, seen the book through the press, and other- wise saved me a world of trouble.

I need but add that with one or two exceptions the illustrations are from photographs taken by myself in the course of the Expedition. For several of the Wa-nyika and Wa-teita illustrations I have to thank my friend the Rev. A. D. Shaw, of Rabai, Mombasa, who kindly placed his collection of photographs at my command, and thus added another to the numerous obligations under which he has placed me.

NOTE TO XEW EDITION.

In introducing a new and cheaper edition of this narrative to the public, little requires to be said. Some additions, a few corrections, and, it is hoped, a number of literary improvements have been made, tending to render the book more useful and more readable.

The chief fact to be noted is that, since the appearance of the earliest edition, great political changes have occurred in East Central Africa.

Then (1885) Masai Land was for the first time made known to the world ; now it has come within the " sphere of British influence," — a delicate way, I suppose, of saying that it now practically forms a. part of our Imperial posses- sions.

Reasons of State, obscure to ordinary mortals, have made it necessary to sacrifice Seyyid Barghash, Sultan of Zanzibar. We have, under these circumstances, but to congratulate our- selves that we have had an Argus-eyed and far-seeing diplo- matist to look after our interests. In possession of the beautiful plateau-lands of Masai Land, and healthy, easy route to the interior, we may look with equanimity on our German neighbours further south, sweating in the malarious marshes, or attempting to exploit the inhospitable regions inland.

I am singxilarly happy in being able to incorporate a note on the recent development of events in East Africa, by Sir John Kirk, G.C.M.G., whose im wearied care and watchful- ness and far-seeing policy have not always received the recognition they deserve. His influence in the cause of African Exploration has been great, and he might well be called the Friend of Travellers.

Others besides diplomatists have not been slow to see the value of Masai Land. At this moment numerous sportsmen

xii Note to New Edition.

are seeking adventures around Kilimanjaro ; while, on the other hand, the extraordinary caves, the wonderful volcanic mountains, and other physical features described in these pages, have supplied material sufficiently romantic to stimu- late the imaginative efforts of a recent novelist.

The advantage of the newly-revealed route to Victoria Nyanza was promptly recognized by the Church Missionary Society ; but unfortunately a rashly-managed and somewhat ill-timed attempt to utilize it, ending in a calamitous mas- sacre, has postponed the possibility of fully profiting by it.

It only remains for the commercial world, seeking new fields and new outlets for its trade, to open its eyes to the extreme fertility of the soil and — for Africa— salubrity of the climate, in order to make British influence in that region something more than a political fiction.

As the reUef of Emin Pasha is at present a subject of absorbing interest, I may be permitted, in conclusion, to refer to the expedition for that purpose. I cannot but express my surprise that a route which no authority can deny to be at once the shortest, the healthiest, and the least obstructed by physical difficulties, should, notwithstanding the urgency of the crisis, have been discarded in favour of a route not only incomparably more tedious, but obviously much more trying in its character. An expedition of manageable proportions might easily have pushed with rapidity, and with perfect security as to supplies, through Masai Land and put Emin Pasha in possession of the ammunition, &c., he so pressingly needs to save himself and his brave party from annihilation ; while a supplementary expedition might have co-operated to secure the leisurely retreat of the beleaguered garrison.

If Emin Pasha is in the desperate plight represented by his friends, it is manifest that haste in getting into touch with him is of paramount importance — a fact apparently lost sight of in the elaborate preparations for the bringing atcay of a party which meanwhile may be massacred.

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.

rASK RECOlTXAISSAirCI 6

CHAPTER II. To Tavbta 25

CHAPTER III. A tovrsiauT ik a fobbst FAsrsEsa 64

CHAPTER IV. Thsovgh ths soos of ths Masai 72

CHAPTER V.

PBBPABATIOX foe a xrw ATTKSfPX 100

CHAPTER VI.

OXWABB OKCE XOBE! 125

CHAPTER VII. To KlKTYU 153

CHAPTER VIII. To Lakb Naitasha 184

CHAPTER IX. To Lakb Babixqo rid MoxrvT Eexia 202

xiv Contents.

CHAPTER X.

PASS

Masai Land and the Masai 234

CHAPTER XI. Theough Kavieondo to Victobia Nyanza .... 263

CHAPTER XII. Back to Baeingo via Eigon 296

, CHAPTER XIII. Spoet at Baeingo and jouenet Coastwaed .... 317

Appendix . . . 341

Note by Sie John Kibk 357

Index .... 361

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

rAss

On the War- path In Masai Land Frontispiece

Native Christians' House 19

James Martin .......... 24

Wa-njika Village 27

Rabai Mission-Hoose 29

Wa-nyika Women ponnding grain 31

Reviewing the Expedition 33

Teita hut 43

M-teita of Ndara 47

Wa-teita Women .... 49

M-teita Girl 53

Men's Quarters, Taveta 55

Wa-teita Village, Ndan 71

Camp scene near Mandan's 79

Mandara's Warriors 83

BorassosPalm 107

New Quarters at Taveta Ill

View of Kilimanjaro across Lake Chala 123

Alcelaphus Cokii 124

Lake Chala 129

Andorobbo Men and a Woman 187

" Just in the nick of time I made a dash sideways "... 140

Fountains of the Useri . . 141

The Buffalo's horns, Kimangelia 151

Kilimanjaro and the Njiri Plain 157

Masai Women of Njiri. (Faces painted) 161

Qwge of the Ngare Sure 169

Masai Warriors of Kapt^ ........ 173

Glimpse of Camp-life 176

Masai Women of Kapto ........ 181

Camp at Ngongo 183

Donyo Longonot from G. Kedong 191

Firewood Plain (Angata Elgek) from Kekup^ .... 201

Warriors of Lykipia 205

The Thomson FaUs, Biver Ururu 217

Moont Eenia from the west 223

Lykipia escarpment from Njemps 229

Camp at Njemps 233

Natives of Njemps 235

xvi List op Illustkations.

PAGE

Masai married Woman, Njiri 241

Masai Kraal, D. Longonot in distance 244

Ear stretcher and ear ornaments 245

Masai Weapons and Ornaments 249

Ear ornaments, married Woman 257

Masai married Women, Njiri 261

D. Lobikwe, Kamasia, from near Njemps 265

Wa-kwafi Girls of Njemps 267

Glen of the Guaso Kamnye 271

Lava cap, Elgeyo escarpment ....... 273

Village of Kabaras, Kavirondo 277

Married Women, Kavirondo 279

Mnd Walls and Gateway, Massala, Kavirondo .... 281 R. Nzoia near Seremba, with school of Hippos . . . o 289

Victoria Nyanza from Massala 291

Daughters of the Chief of Massala 294

" I was promptly propelled sky ward " 306

Horns of the Buffalo 309

Natives of Suk on a visit to Njemps 313

Gazella Thomson! 316

" Here I was on my knee, behind a small skeleton bush, positively

loolcing up at an enormous wild elephant " . . . . 325 Mianzi-ni from the south. Masai kraal in the foreground . . 335

Map.

Eoute Map of the Masai Country.

THEOUGH MASAI LAND.

INTRODUCTORY.

The tract of country the exploration of which will form the subject-matter of this book, may be described as occupying a diagonal stripe in the area enclosed between 5® S. Lat. and 1° N. Lat. and the meridian of 33° and 39° E. longitude.

The commencement of the exploration of this region, forms the first chapter in the history of East Central African dis- covery. It was at Melinde that Vasco di Gama first landed after rounding the Cape ; and on the reefs of Mombasa at a later date, the treachery of his pilot brought him to the verge of ship^\Teck.

For several centuries, however, nothing was done to lift the veil of the unknown by exploration, though of course some vague ideas of the geography of the interior were formed from the crude native accounts which reached the coast. Thus, for instance, in a Portuguese work of 1530, we find it stated that " West of this port (Mombasa) stands the Mount 01)-mpus of Ethiopia, which is exceeding high, and beyond it are the Mountains of the Moon, in which are the sources of the Nile." The Mount Olympus here mentioned we may suppose to mean Kilimanjaro, though it would be difficult to say what are the mountains described as those " of the Moon ;" for, like the sources of the Nile, they have been somewhat '• coy " and hard to find.

From the visit of Vasco di Gama till 1842, it may safely be said that little of any interest was added to our knowledge of this part of the interior. On that date, however, a new era of discovery commenced. The Rev. Dr. Krapf, driven from his [Mission to the Gallas of Abyssinia, was commissioned to visit East Africa, and ascertain if there was a " door " open for the introduction of Christianity. He found, as he imagined, such a place at Mombasa. There accordingly he established himself, the apostle of Christianity in East Africa, and the pioneer of geographical exploration.

It was not till 1847, that there was any serious attempt to pass the threshold. In that year Krapfs colleague,

2 Through Masai Land.

Rebmann, made the first of a series of remarkable trips into the region to the west of Mombasa. "With eight men he penetrated the cultivated coast region, crossed a strip of desert, and revealed to geography the interesting isolated mountains and picturesque ranges of Teita.

In the following year, " weaponed only Avith an umbrella," and accompanied by no more than nine men, Eebmann started on a more extended journey, which was destined to arouse the geographers of Europe from their indifference and to supply them with a bone of keen contention. Pushing through Teita, he traversed the desert beyond, and reached Chaga — the cultivated country round the lower slopes of Kilimanjaro. For the first time the eternal snows of the mountains of East Africa were seen, though for years few believed in their existence. The remarkable nature of this journey will be understood when it is mentioned that in a recent natural history expedition to the same place it has been thought necessary to take about 140 men.

In the latter part of the same year we find Rebmann once more on the road to Chaga, apparently now thoroughly smitten with the fever of African travel. This time his caravan is composed of fifteen porters. It would seem, more- over, that he has now lost faith in the all-sufficiency of his umbrella, and has concluded that a measure of prudence is not inconsistent with an implicit trust in Providence, for we read that his men were armed with guns and boAvs and arrows. On this occasion he crossed the greater part of the southern aspect of Kilimanjaro, and reached Machame, then the largest and most imj^ortant of the small Chaga states.

Grown ambitious by the success of these unique and re- markable journeys, Eebmann determined on an expedition of greater magnitude. Having heard of a country called U-nyam- wesi, and of some enormous lake in the same region, he selected it as a new field of exploration. For this purpose he formed a caravan of thirty men, and started on the 6th of April, 1849. His projected route was via Kilimanjaro ; U- nvamwesi being thought to lie about west from that mountain.

This expedition, however, was not destined to succeed. The fate which has frequently befallen the African traveller brought Rebmann's enterprise to an untimely end, just as he had reached the threshold of the new country. Getting into the hands of the unscrupulous chief of Macham^, he was plundered of everything. His hopes were ruined, and retreat became inevitable. '^^'(• need not wonder that in his

Rebmann and Krapp. 3

sore disappointment he was reduced to tears, while health and spirits gave way. He returned to Mombasa, suffering great hardships on the way, and we hear of him no more in the work of exploration.

The " Mombasa Mission," however, did not remain idle in the opening up of new fields of missionary enterprise. The mantle of Eebmann fell on Krapf, who, doubtless fired by his colleague's interesting discoveries, determined to enter the lists. In 1849 Krapf started for U-kambani. His object was to open up a new country to the influence of Christianity, to ascertain if a route existed to U-nyamwesi, to discover the sources of the Nile, and, as he puts it, to reach " those still surviving Christian remnants at the Equator of whom I had heard in Shoa."

Taking a somewhat more northerly route than that of Rebmann, Krapf traversed Teita, touching at the mountains Maungu, and Ndara, also the northern end of the Bura Range. Then, turning more to the north, he crossed the Tzavo River, wliich flows to the Sabaki, traversed Kikum- buliu, the southern district of U-kambani, and reached Kitui, then reigned over by a chief named Kivoi.

This remarkable and daring journey was undertaken with only eleven men ; and as the result of it, Krapf was able fully to confirm Rebmann's description of the snow-clad summit of Kilimanjaro, though with Mr. Cooley it remained only " a most delightful mental recognition, not supported by the evidence of the senses."

Krapf, however, made another discovery of no less interest. On leaving Kivoi's village on his return journey, he descried the summit of a second snow-clad mountain named by the Wa-kamba Kenia. He describes it as six days' journey from Kivoi's, situated north-west of Kilimanjaro, and appearing as " two large horns or pillars " !

Two years later, in 1851, we find Krapf once more on the way to U-kambani, this time with the express purpose of founding a mission-station in the district of Yata. He failed in this, and returned to the coast after a series of extra- ordinary hardships and adventures. On this journey Krapf penetrated as far as the Dana River.

iVll honour to those two simple, brave men, who by their wonderful journeys gave an impulse to tliscovery that lias not been properly recognized, enduring hardships and facing dangers before which those of explorers much more highly l>elauded fatle into insignificance.

B 2

4 Through Masai Land.

A period of ten years elapsed before the work of exploration was resumed in those equatorial regions. In 1862 Baron von der Decken, accompanied by the young geologist, Thornton, visited Lake Jipe and Kilimanjaro, and for the lirst time a map of the region with some approach to scientific accuracy appeared. In a second expedition, with the assist- ance of Dr. Kersten, some new ground was broken to the south, and the country still more accurately defined. Kili- manjaro was ascended to nearly 14,000 feet, and Mount Meru triangulated. The travellers, however, failed an the great object of their expedition, viz. to enter the Masai country. At the very threshold they were met by several thousands of the dreaded warriors, and compelled to return to the coast. Their caravan leader was one Sadi-bin-Ahedi, who for the first, but not the last, time appears before the geographical public. I have every reason to believe that Von der Decken's failure was mainly due to the machina- tions of Sadi, whose little ways in that direction I have much reason to know, as will be seen in the sequel of this narrative.

The next who penetrated into the interior was the missionary New, who also journeyed to Kilimanjaro, and for the first time in history reached the snow-line. On his return he discovered the wonderful little crater lake of Chala at the base of the mountain. On this expedition he also was accompanied by Sadi.

A few years later with the same guide and interpreter Mr. New returned to Chaga ; but, having failed to satisfy the expectations of the dreaded warrior chief Mandara of Moschi, he was plundered of everything, mainly through the instiga- tions of Sadi. Like Rebmann on his last journey to Machame, he left Chaga broken down in health and spirits, to die on the road. According to Mandara, he was poisoned by Sadi, but that part of the story I can hardly believe ; Sadi could have no motive to do anything of the sort. I can more easily believe that Mandara himself had an intention to kill New — as, indeed, he informed me in one of his extremely confidential moments, — but was prevented by his mother from carrying out his purpose.

With Hildebrandt, the naturalist, closes the history of travel in this region. Following simply in the footsteps of Krapf, he failed to get beyond Kitui in U-kambani, and re- turned without enriching geography with any new facts beyond a valuable series of observations for altitude.

A New Expedition ee solved upon. 5

Of the regions beyond Kilimanjaro and U-kambani nothing was learned by direct observation. Geographers had to be content with the itineraries of native traders, notably those of Sadi as taken down by "Wakefield, whose labours occupy by no means an unimportant part in the history of East African exploration.

These accoimts, however, promised a rich reward of in- teresting discovery to the man who might dare to face the terrible Masai, and succeed in entering their country. This seemed for years to be too hard a nut to crack. The enter- prise savoured too much of danger. Either the risks were considered too great, or the scheme too costly. Consequently, in spite of the curiosity of the geographer, no. attempt was for years made to organize an expedition.

In 1877 such a project was mooted, and considered among others by the African Committee of the Royal Geographical Society. It found an enthusiastic advocate in Keith John- ston, who longed to have an opportunity of entering the Masai country ; but the committee determined advei-sely, and sent him on the expedition to Nyassa, at the very commence- ment of which he succumbed to dysentery, leaving me to carry out the work. My inquiries at that time led me to wish ardently for the opportunity of making an attempt to reach Victoria Nyanza through the !Masai country. There seemed, however, no immediate prospect of anything being done in that direction.

The year following my return home from the Nyassa ex- pedition I went out to East Africa to examine the so-called coal region of the RoAiima basin for the Sultan of Zanzibar ; but as I failed either to find or make that valuable mineral, my distinguished employer and I parted with mutual satis- faction.

On my arrival from Zanzibar, in January, 1882, after my failure to realize the Sultan's hopes regarding rich coal-fields, I was, to my delight, requested by the Eoyal Geographical Society to report upon the practicability of sending a caravan through the Masai country ; also as to the route and the probable expense. I reported favourably and proposed a plan of exploration, estimating the cost at about 4000/. This estimate was given imder the impression that a naturalist was to accompany the expedition. The Council, after delibera- tion, resolved to organize a purely geographical expedition, and I was selected as leader of the new enterprise. A sum of 2000/. was voted for expenses. To this an addition of

6 Through Masai Land.

600Z. was afterwards made, and then 400?. more, on my representations from East Africa before starting. I should have liked to have had 4000Z., but had to be content with the smaller sum.

In my instructions the object of the expedition was defined to be — "The ascertaining if a practicable direct route for European travellers exists through the Masai country from any one of the East African ports to Victoria Nyanza, and to examine Mount Kenia ; to gather data for construct- ing as complete a map as possible in a preliminary survey ; and to make all practicable observations regarding the meteorology, geology, natural history, and ethnology of tlie regions traversed."

In the following pages it will be my duty to tell how this work has been performed ; to describe where, how, and to what purpose we journeyed ; in other words, to give an account of my stewardship.

CHAPTER I.

RECONNAISSANCE.

On the 13th of December, 1882, having completed all neces- sary preliminary arrangements, I embarked on the B.I. S.N. Company's steamer Navarino bound for the East, in which, by the generosity of that enterprising company, I received a free passage. Leaving the steamer at Suez, I enjoyed a run to Cairo, where I had the pleasure of associating with the mem- bers of the Geographical Society on the occasion of a farewell dinner to General Stone, who at that time was returning to his native country. Lieut. Weissman, on his way home after his brilliant march • across the continent from west to east, was also at Cairo, recruiting his health in the balmy climate of Egypt, before facing the rigours of a German winter. I had the further satisfaction of meeting with his celebrated countryman, Schweinfurth, from whom I received much kindly attention.

Continuing my way after a most agreeable trip, we touched as usual at that most impressive and picturesque of eastern ports, Aden, and then, after one of the quickest and most enjoyable passages on record, wo neared, ou the 26th of January, 1883, the now familiar island of Zanzibar.

Zanzibar. 7

It was with very different feelings that I now strained my eyes to catch the first glimpse of land through the haze, from those I experienced five years previously when, almost a boy, I wistfully watched for the appearance of the green isle with its long-dreamed-of tropical vegetation and mjTiad wonders, over which the imagination peculiar to the •' untra veiled traveller " threw a glamour and fascination, that is, alas ! only too often dispelled by the rude facts of experience. Though the waving palm-trees with their rich burden, the clove plantations with their spicy odours, and the grand masses of the mango with their luscious fruit and grateful shade had now been long familiar to me, yet Zanzibar and the main- land were still pleasantly tinted by the glowing hues of fan- tasy— for, to me, here was still a promised land, in which were many desirable nooks for the traveller who should venture in and win — possibility of failure not being allowed to tone down my sanguine hopes.

On the morning of the date just mentioned the s.s. Oriental, commanded by Captain Lewnes, cast anchor in the harbour. Immediately after, a familiar Zanzibar figure — Pira, the active jack-of-all-trades to the Sultan Sayyid Bargash — appeared on deck in the capacity of His Highness's gossip and harbour-master. Thereafter I proceeded on shore, as in duty bound, to call upon Colonel S. B. Miles, a name not unknown to geographers as a traveller in the Somali country, who at this time was acting as consul-general and political agent for Sir John Kirk, then absent on a wellHlcserved holiday. I was received at once as an expected and welcome guest by Mrs. Miles, and installed in my old quarters, which I had now occupied so often that they had acquired a distinctly home-like aspect.

I was soon put in possession of all the news which form the main staple of conversation in a place far removed from the exciting arena of European politics. It was with much regret that I learned that Bishop Steere had gone over to the majority. A gentleman of rare talent and tact, he curiously combined High Church procliNnties with the characteristics of a man of the world. As head of the Uni- versities' Mission to East Africa, he performed herculean labours of a singidarly varied character, which will ever form the most appropriate memorial of him as a great and good man.

A loss, however, which I felt more immediately than that of Dr. Steere, was that of the well-known Chumah whom I had

8 Through Masai Land.

hoped to have again with me as head-man. He also had died after a short but stirring life, having, in his own special way, done much indirectly to open up Africa to science and commerce.

It was Avith considerable relief that I heard from Colonel Miles that our Government had addressed the Sultan and recommended me to his good offices. I had been afraid that, as I failed to find a coal-mine for him on the Rovuma, and l^arted from His Higlmess on somewhat bad terms, he would do all in his power — and he could have done not a little — to spoil my travelling. Now, however, I felt pleased to know that if he did not help me, he was at least not likely to make obstacles.

The news about the interior was of no special interest. The missionaries were still as active as ever, and were at least keeping the country open, if not making many converts. The Belgian Branch of the International African Association had now ceased making further attempts to pass beyond Tanganyika, and were content to hold on to Karema, which had more than realized all my worst prognostications. Several men had died, and up to that time the grand hopes of the Association were without fulfilment. Unyanyembe had also been given up, though in the most suitable position either for assisting the advancement of civilization and Christianity, or as a centre for the scientific traveller. The Germans, more active and more scientific, had not been quite so idle. Much useful work had been done, though nothing specially note- worthy. A few days after my arrival, tidings arrived from the interior that the astronomer of the German party had reached Lake Leopold, but had died there.

I was, however, more especially interested in liearing about the movements of a German naturalist named Dr. Fischer. This gentleman had spent many years on the coast, and had been commissioned by the Hamburg Geographical Society to penetrate into the very regions for which I my- self was bound. It was thought necessary to throw a con- siderable amount of mystery about his movements — where he was going and what route he would adopt. I gathered, however, that he proposed visiting ^Mount Kenia and Lake Baringo, penetrating, if possible, beyond to what was then supposed to be the Galla country. Although he had spent several months in preparation, no one knew anything definite about the proposed expedition till he was ready to start. The first news, therefore, of tlio fact took me not a little

My Head-men. 9

aback as I thought of the ground being cut away from my feet in this unexpected manner. I had to console myself with the reflection that the field was large, and that some pickings might after all fall to my share.

Having thus renewed my acquaintance with my friends, and with the familiar places of other days, gathered together the news of the interior, and learned how far light had lately been shed in dark places, I made a commencement in final preparations.

My first business was to secure my head-men, on whom so much depends for the success of an African expedition. In this I was fortunate. There was Makatubu, my able second head-man in my two previous trips. For powers of work, great energy, and general intelligence he stands inferior to none of all the Wa-swahili I have yet come in contact with. His one great defect is an utter absence of tact in dealing with the men under him. He never can acquire the neces- sary influence to lead men. But for this I should not have hesitated to place him at the head of my caravan. As it was, I had to relegate him to his old position of second, and place the goods under his special charge.

Casting about for a leader, I was delighted at finding Muinp Sera, or Manwa Sera, the head-man of Stanley in his journey across the continent. I thought I had secured a prize in this man, who would, I imagiaed, be likely to have some of the " go " of his distinguished master. I could not have made a greater mistake. He turned out as lazy and unprofitable a personage as could be well conceived, though, to give him his due, he was honest and intelligent, and never attempted to thwart me in any way whatever. He was, however, content — probably through age — to be looked upon as purely ornamental, and was treated acconlingly.

I was also somewhat disappointed with Kacheche — Stan- ley's much-praised detective, who proved, however, to be not unusefuL For instance, he was an admirable buyer of food, and as good at distributing it to the men. He had as many strange ways as any heathen Chinee, but for general odd jobs was as good as could be got. Kacheche, therefore, was put at the head of the commissariat and intelligence depart- ment.

Next to Kacheche came Brahim, or Ali Xgombe (Ali the bullock). It was a somewhat risky step on my part to put this man in the position of a head-man. In my first expedi- tion he was a porter, who, while he was without exception

10 Through Masai Land.

one of the best men in my caravan as a worker, was yet the ringleader in all the troubles with the men. He it was who led the mutiny in Uhehe when every man deserted, and at all times he was a thorn in the flesh. Powerfully built, with a' ferocious expression when angry, ho was the very heau- ideal of a savage. He was at once the bully of the caravan and the idol of the men. With such attributes, I concluded that if I could elevate him above the men and cut him off from them by giving him a superior position, I might turn all his good and bad traits in my favour. It Avas a bold but also a lucky venture. In everything Brahim turned out as I expected. He had a remarkable influence over the men. They were afraid of him, and yet they loved him for his jolly, rollicking disposition. Where formerly he delighted to raise trouble and mutiny, he now became the terror of all cantankerous individuals. The sight of Brahim with a stick was quite sufficient to oil the wheels of caravan life into admirable working order. He occupied the position of my aide-de-camp, my personal road assistant, and hunting com- panion. A more generally useful man I have never had, and I would not have exchanged him for any ten men in my caravan.

My list of head-men was completed by the addition of Mzee Uledi, an extremely useful man, deft in working Avith cloth, and expert with goods generally. He formed INIaka- tubu's assistant in looking after the goods and stores.

On the whole, my caravan leaders were as thoroughly good a set as I could have hit upon, and it gives me great pleasure to state how thoroughly they co-operated with me in every way, striving with zeal, determination, and honesty to make the expedition successful.

It onl}^ remains that I should mention another valuable addition made to the caravan in the person of James Martin, a Maltese sailor. On leaving England I had determined on not taking any white man with me, but on my arrival at Zanzibar Martin presented himself with very good certilicates of character. He had been over six years m the employment of the C.M.S. Mission at Mombasa, knew Ki-swahili well, and had been thoroughly accustomed to the natives. As he was then out of work, and ready to go for whatever I pleased to give him, I at once resolved to take him, and I am happy to say that I had never reason to regret my decision. Though unable to read or write, he Avas very intelligent and could talk about ten languages in sailor fashion. In every

A Trip of Enquiry. 11

respect, manners, language, dressing, &c., he was far above the average sailor, and from the first I never scrupled to treat him more as a companion than a servant. Yet he never presumed upon this, but from first to last was most respect- ful, had no opinions of his own as to what should be done or not done, was ever prompt to carry out orders, and always anxious to do something. To show how well we got on, I might mention the possibly unprecedented fact in African travelling, that we actually never once had an unpleasantness between us. I cannot speak too highly in Martin's praise, and if it were ever my lot to go back to Africa, I would seek for no better an assistant

Having completed these important and satisfactory arrangements, it became necessary for me to make a trip to Pangani and Mombasa, so as to acquire some information regarding the routes through the ^lasai country and the nature of the goods required by the tribes of that region, also to find out whether it would be advisable to take my porters from the coast-towns whence trading caravans depart, or from Zanzibar, the natives of which were quite unacquainted with the region to be traversed, and were looked upon by the people of the interior with great dislike. "With these objects in view. I started with Martin and my head-men on the fifth day after my arrival at Zanzibar. Setting sail on the evening of the 1st of February, we found ourselves next morning tacking about in our wretched dliow near the north end of the island, trying in vain to make headway. Towards noon a more favourable breeze sprang up, and, after the usual tit of sea-sickness in crossing the channel, we entered the Pangani River and cast anchor at the town at 3 p.m. On landing, we proceeded at once to the house used by the agents of the Universities' ^lission, who rest here on their way between Zanzibar and their station of Magila, at the base of the U-sambara Mountains. I had been provided with a letter to the Wali, or Governor, but foimd that he was out of town.

I was fortunate enough, however, to meet Fischer's head- man, who proved to be communicative. He told me a sad tale of months of delay and of other annoyances sufficient to drive any one mad. Men had deserted wholesale, in spite of the most active assistance of the Wali, backed up Mith peremptory orders from the Sultan. At that moment there were actually fifty runaways captured and chained in the town. The greater part of a year had thus been consumed.

12 Through Masai Land.

These facts tallied very much with my own knowledge of coast ways, and I mentally concluded not to attempt to organize my caravan at Pangani.

The evening was spent among the Indian merchants, who received me hospitably, and gave me most valuable informar tion regarding the goods required up country.

Next morning, as there was nothing to be gained by a pro- longed delay, I set out to walk along the coast to Mombasa, as much to acquaint myself with the general appearance of the country, as in the hope of adding to my knowledge of the requirements of my expedition. Our route lay along the lower of the raised beaches Avhich here skirt the coast. It is but poorly cultivated, and the greater part is occupied by bush, dwarf fan palms, and the dom or doum palm. A six hours' sharp march over this uninteresting country brought us to the small village of Tangata. I was somewhat dis- appointed to find that Martin was by no means a good Avalker and had skinned his heels sadly. "We stopped at Tangata for the night, and refreshed ourselves by a bath in the creek.

Getting off the first thing in the morning, we crossed the creek in a canoe to a village on the opposite side, where I was much interested in the return of several porters from a Masai caravan.

A few hours broug^it us to the important coast-town of Tanga, which is charmingly situated on the upper raised beach, among groves of cocoa-nuts, and with a pretty creek running into the land, which forms a capacious harbour.

On my arrival here, I was compelled, in mercy to Martin, to give up my intention of proceeding further by land, and determined to take to' that most atrocious of all transports — an East African dhow. One was found to be " ready " to go at once, and I thereupon concluded a bargain. In the evening, having been apprised that when we were ready the dhow was, we marched down to the beach, to have the satis- faction of finding the dhow high and dry ; neither sailors, nor sails, nor oars. No explanation of this singular form of readiness being forthcoming, we liad to swallow our choler after the customary storming, and retire till midnight, when the tide would be in and float the dhow. On rousing up as arranged, we were informed that there Avould be Jio favour- able wind till 3 a.m., and so turned in till that hour. Again we waked up with the intention of starting, whereupon it was coolly intimated to us that the dhow would not go at all.

Abab '* Readiness." 13

As this was deady an attempt to extort more money, I resolved to show the owner that no tnie-hoam Scotchman would stand that kind of thing. I therefore at once took pos- session of his person, and hanled him up before the WaK, who promptly put him in chains. In my irritation at the provoking delay, I was about to resume my tramp by land, when another Arab appeared, and informcMi me that for a certain sum he would